Huge tops, beer and bluffs: A weekend in Baraboo, Wisconsin

The distinctive, merry sounds of a steam calliope float by way of the streets of downtown Baraboo, Wisconsin.

It’s a curious accompaniment to these serenely paddling alongside the Baraboo River or sampling handcrafted vodka at Driftless Glen Distillery. The high-pitched notes may even be heard by these wandering the aromatic purple fields at New Life Lavender & Cherry Farm a couple of miles away.

But when calliopes, canoes, wonderful spirits and lavender appear a curious mixture, that’s precisely why tourism is surging on this small Wisconsin metropolis, whose inhabitants barely tops 12,000.

Though customer numbers are laborious to come back by, Sauk County — of which Baraboo is the county seat — ranks third out of Wisconsin’s 72 counties in tourism spending, trailing solely powerhouses Milwaukee and Dane counties, dwelling to the state’s largest metropolis and the state capital, respectively. In 2021, vacationers spent $1.5 billion in Sauk County, a 55% improve over 2020, in keeping with the Wisconsin Division of Tourism. That determine can also be 30% increased than tourism spending in 2019.

Baraboo’s roots as a vacationer vacation spot stretch again to 1884, when the Ringling Bros. Circus chosen the town as its winter headquarters, a designation it retained till 1918. (That yr, the Ringlings pulled up stakes to hitch forces with the Barnum & Bailey Circus, which wintered out east.)

Whereas there wasn’t a lot for guests to see again then, save for the each day communitywide elephant walks, issues modified in 1959, when Circus World Museum (550 Water St., 608-356-8341, circusworldbaraboo.org) opened on the outdated Ringling wintering grounds. Circus World was created by a handful of people that wished to protect the reminiscence of the touring circus period, then in decline.

Now a state historic web site and Nationwide Historic Landmark, the museum options seven of the unique winter quarters buildings, greater than 260 intricately embellished, genuine circus wagons — the biggest such assortment on this planet — and the Huge High Circus, which hosts twice-daily performances through the summer season season.

Guests have been streaming into city for many years to tour Circus World or recreate at close by Satan’s Lake, Wisconsin’s hottest state park. However they’ve typically spent the majority of their trip time elsewhere. Particularly, Wisconsin Dells, 20 minutes north, which is famed for its plethora of water parks.

However Baraboo’s lot as a pass-through city started to alter in 2013, when Smithsonian journal awarded the town fourth place on its record of America’s 20 finest small cities to go to. The esteemed publication raved about Circus World and Satan’s Lake, in fact, but in addition praised the town’s Rockwellian downtown — which is on the Nationwide Register of Historic Locations — and the not too long ago renovated Worldwide Crane Basis (E11376 Shady Lane Street, 608-356-9462, savingcranes.org), the one spot on this planet that’s dwelling to all 15 crane species.

The journal’s recognition coincided with — or maybe spurred — a gentle addition of latest, tourist-focused companies that collectively type fairly a gorgeous draw for guests, whether or not or not you take pleasure in clowning round.

A number of new companies focus on wonderful drink — particularly craft beer, wine and distilled spirits. Tumbled Rock Brewery (S5718 State Street 136 & DL, 608-448-4340, tumbledrock.com), which opened close to the north shore of Satan’s Lake shortly earlier than the pandemic, presents a cream ale, maple oatmeal stout and several other IPAs. You too can nosh on lamb lollipops, bison sliders, crab desserts and deep-fried cheese curds.

The Al. Ringling Brewery (623 Broadway St., 608-448-4013, alringlingbrewing.com), which opened in late 2020, is understood for the Ringling Household Authentic, a really mild, Prohibition-style ale that’s made utilizing a beer recipe discovered underneath a floorboard when the Al. Ringling Mansion was being restored. Pair your Ringling Household Authentic with a Paraguayan beef empanada, Bavarian pretzel or some fried yuca, then take a tour of the mansion.

Baraboo Bluff Vineyard (E9120 Terrytown Street, 608-393-0939, baraboobluffwinery.com) perches atop the Baraboo Hills, one of the vital historical North American rocky outcrops, providing killer views together with its sampling flights. Eight miles east, Balanced Rock Vineyard (1065 Walnut St., 608-448-2958, balancedrockwinery.com) sells mild fare to take pleasure in with its wines — suppose flatbreads, charcuterie and avenue tacos. There’s additionally dwell music twice weekly by way of the summer season and, for duffers, a 250-yard driving vary out again. Driftless Glen Distillery (300 Water St., 608-356-4536, driftlessglen.com), tucked alongside the Baraboo River, crafts wonderful bourbon, rye whiskey and vodka utilizing native grain and water, affording its spirits a particular taste.

Open air buffs have lengthy loved the wealth of leisure alternatives at Satan’s Lake, which embody mountain climbing and scuba diving along with extra typical park actions resembling mountain climbing and swimming. Fewer are accustomed to the distinctive paddling provided alongside the Baraboo River. Wisconsin’s solely undammed river, the Baraboo options the longest stretch of reclaimed river within the nation.

Lease your most popular watercraft from Baraboo River Canoe & Kayak Leases (106 Freedom St., North Freedom; 608-737-1100; barabooriverrentals.com), then hop on their shuttle to your favored put-in level, which may end up in a paddle lasting only a few miles as much as almost a dozen. Throughout your journey, look ahead to the herons and eagles that frequent the waterway, or choose a route that takes you previous Circus World.

Climbing fans will recognize the possibility to trek alongside a portion of the ice age Path, considered one of simply 11 Nationwide Scenic Trails within the U.S. Almost 15 miles of the 1,200-mile ice age Path wind by way of the guts of Baraboo and Satan’s Lake, showcasing spectacular glacial stays alongside the way in which. On the close by Aldo Leopold Basis (E13701 Levee Street, 608-355-0279, aldoleopold.org), you’ll be able to tour the Leopold Heart and its reveals, then discover the unique shack utilized by the well-known American environmentalist. You too can benefit from the property’s 2 ½ miles of path, which wind by way of oak savanna, wetlands and prairie.

For a softer journey, try Rowley Creek Lavender Farm (E13901 County Rd. W, 608-844-9635, rowleycreekfarm.com) or New Life Lavender & Cherry Farm (E10766 County Street W, newlifelavender.com). At Rowley Creek, stroll by way of the lavender fields for a visible and olfactory deal with, or join considered one of their particular occasions, resembling a waffle breakfast; yoga and meditation session; or non-public picnic for 2 or 4, that includes lavender-flavored meals. A store promoting lavender items can also be on web site.

New Life presents widespread farm-to-table wagon journey excursions by way of its 40 acres, the place you’ll expertise not solely the lavender fields, however secret natural gardens and an eight-acre wildflower sanctuary for bees. A collection of tasty treats is accessible, too, together with the farm’s signature lavender cherry pie.

One other distinctive native spot is Wisconsin Huge Cat Rescue (305 Pine St., Rock Springs; 608-524-5466; wisconsinbigcats.org), the place you’ll be able to take a self-guided tour of its resident tigers, lions, leopards, lynx and liligers. Morning feed tour are additionally out there. Should you like the thought of falling asleep close to the furry felines, you’ll be able to even lease considered one of its new, on-site cabins.

From lavender to lynx and calliopes to cranes, you’ll by no means be bored within the ’Boo.

Guide a room on the Ringling Home Mattress & Breakfast, a century-old Georgian Revival-styled dwelling constructed Charles Ringling, one of many founders of the Ringling Brothers Circus. Included in your keep is a tour of the property, which additionally incorporates a carriage home, cottage and barn. 201 eighth St., 608-356-4229, ringlinghousebnb.com

Driftless Glenn Restaurant, which is a part of the distillery, serves lunch and dinner in its picturesque locale alongside the Baraboo River. The menu contains dishes resembling bourbon barbecue burgers with smoked Gouda, lemon vodka hen, and Scottish salmon seared and coated with five-year reserve brandy glaze. 300 Water St., 608-356-4536, driftlessglen.com

For extra data, see baraboo.com.

Melanie Radzicki McManus is a contract author.