Cannolo: The ‘erotic’ origins of Sicily’s prime pastry

(CNN) — Making a visit to Sicily with out indulging in a scrumptious cannolo pastry is akin to visiting Naples with out tucking into an genuine pizza. Virtually unparalleled.

These deliciously crispy tube-shaped shells stuffed with contemporary ricotta are close to inconceivable to withstand. And as soon as you have had one, you will greater than probably be craving one other.

Whereas there are variations of cannolo (or cannoli) elsewhere on this planet, the one technique to style the true factor is to journey to the Italian island. There is not any acceptable substitution in some other place, not even the remainder of Italy.

However what’s it that makes this delectable pastry, usually dotted with candied fruit, chocolate or smashed pistachio items, so addictive?

Locals from the Sicilian city of Caltanissetta declare there is a very raunchy secret behind its tempting qualities.

Sensual beginnings

Positioned deep in central Sicily, Caltanissetta is commonly claimed because the “birthplace” of cannolo. Right here, the mouthwatering deal with is typically known as the “Rod of Moses” or the “King’s Scepter,” in reference to its supposed erotic origins.

In accordance with legend, cannolo was first made by the concubines of an Arab emir to honor the sexual efficiency of their grasp, and its phallic kind was no accident.

Confined inside the pink partitions of the Pietrarossa Fortress, the ladies are mentioned to have whiled away the hours concocting candy recipes collectively.

“The origins of this scrumptious cake are imbued with legend and fantasy however there are a couple of actual historic parts that push us to help the paternity of it,” Roberto Gambino, mayor of Caltanissetta, tells CNN.

“Caltanissetta was based by the Arabs and it’s probably there was a harem right here that the emir saved full of ladies who created cannolo.”

“The identify ‘Caltanissetta’ comes from the Arabic ‘qal-at-nisa’, which interprets to the “metropolis of ladies.”

Some Latin writers have additionally talked about the existence of such a “metropolis of ladies,” apparently referring to it as “castro feminarum.”

‘Metropolis of ladies’

Many contemplate the Sicilian city of Caltanissetta to be the birthplace of cannolo.

Simoncountry/Adobe Inventory

In accordance with native professor and researcher Rosanna Zaffuto, Caltanissetta was as soon as a strategic outpost, in addition to one of many best Arab facilities in Sicily.

Some of the vital castles in Sicily, Pietrarossa Fortress is believed to have been constructed within the ninth century as a army lookout.

Its place, overlooking the Salso river, allowed conquerors to enter with their ships from the ocean, says Zaffuto. The city of Caltanissetta would finally develop across the fortress.

Right now, Pietrarossa, which implies “pink rock” in Italian, is basically a smash with a convent at its ft.

Located in a quiet spot outdoors the city heart overlooking pristine fields with grazing sheep, it has managed to keep up its attract, feeding into the cannolo fantasy.

Sicily was below Arab rule for lots of of years, forsaking a wealthy heritage, together with culinary traditions and iconic meals such because the well-known pastry, which turned a part of Sicilian tradition.

Though there are traces of a “primeval” cannolo courting again to historic Roman occasions, the recipe that exists as we speak is of Arab origin.

One of many myths surrounding the pastry states that the “ladies contained in the fortress” got here up with the thought of filling the pastry dough with ricotta to be able to welcome their beloved when he visited from Palermo within the north of Sicily. Cannolo was apparently thought of a great deal with that may very well be shortly ready for his arrival.

Its empty shell was created by wrapping dough across the imported and cultivated thick sugar canes that grew within the surrounding fields, forming tube-like biscuits with a tough, crunchy and bubbly floor resembling tiny popped volcano craters.

Harem to convent?

There are a lot of myths surrounding cannolo. Some say it was first made as a deal with for an Arab emir.

Giuseppe Greco/Second RF/Getty Photographs

The laborious “scorza,” or the outer shell, which stayed contemporary for days, was stuffed with contemporary sheep ricotta cheese on the final minute proper earlier than being served — simply as it’s in Sicily as we speak — in order that it stayed strong. Cannolo shells are sometimes wrapped round metal tubes and fried in lard these days.

In a somewhat unlikely twist, one other fantasy counsel that cannolo moved from the harem into the close by convents constructed within the years that adopted, and have become common with the native nuns.

The nuns apparently ready it as a typical pastry that may very well be served throughout carnival, when chaos dominated and Christian, ethical legal guidelines have been momentarily overhauled with pagan rituals.

Worshiping phallic-shaped objects and muffins was thought of a technique to have fun fertility and life.

“When the Arab rule resulted in 1086 with the rise of the Norman empire, the Arabs residing in qal-at-nisa weren’t expelled nor did they flee.

“They have been transformed to Christianity and assimilated inside society,” says Zaffuto, earlier than suggesting that the daughters or descendants of the emir’s mistresses could have even taken spiritual vows.

“The Arabs and their traditions stay on in Caltanissetta, our dialect has many Arab-sounding phrases reminiscent of ‘tabbutu’ that means ‘coffin’ whereas the identify of our previous neighborhood ‘saccara’ is an identical to that of a district in Cairo.”

In accordance with native grasp pastry chef Lillo Defraia, who has spent 25 years researching the origins of cannolo, the “ladies within the fortress” would finally hand down their recipe to the nuns, who cherished a longstanding custom of pastry making.

He strongly believes that cannolo was born in Caltanissetta and the salacious tales round its origin are excess of only a fantasy.

Elegant delicacy

Native pastry chef Lillo Defraia has spent round 25 years researching the origins of cannolo.

Alessio Abate Carlo Bolzoni

One of many key causes for his resolve is because of the particular sort of flour traditionally used to make the outer shell of the pastry, which Defraia has recreated by asking city elders and farmers.

“Our ancestors grew the maiorca wheat flour selection which is mushy, versatile and ideally suited to make muffins and pastries,” he explains.

“This was the primary sort of flour used to make the cannolo, which was initially stuffed with ricotta combined with honey.”

Right now, an historic stone mill is used to make maiorca flour in Caltanissetta.

Defraia hails the “teamwork” of the concubines and the nuns in seemingly creating and honing a chic delicacy, utilizing prime components from the Sicilian city all these centuries in the past.

It is urged that the nuns improved the unique Arab recipe by including a extra grainy, strong ricotta to the pastry, which was being offered across the Italian island by the 1800s.

Nevertheless, some tales trace that it was actually the nuns who dreamed up the pastry within the first place. Regardless of the fact is, cannolo stays considered one of Sicily’s most beloved, and most well-known, pastries as we speak.

Defraia makes his personal cannolo with a mixture of goat and sheep ricotta, which he says ensures they’re tastier and extra digestible, including vanilla, bits of pumpkin, chocolate and pistachio.

He is very happy with having beforehand created variations weighing as much as 180 kilograms, and goals to beat his personal report someday.

For him, cannolo stays a timeless, spectacular deal with, with simply the suitable mix of sacred and profane.

“Cannolo stands because the supreme expression of our ‘Sicilianness,’ a melting pot of various cultures and beliefs,” he provides.

“It is our Easter Sunday cake.”